The ‘Pin’ Is Mightier Than The Sword

Both the pen and the pin can be mightier than the sword. Vintage hatpins from the Sue Ryder charity shop, Norwich.

I come from a long line of writers and authors, and have always been encouraged to produce stories and words. I’m also a proud ‘south paw’ and like to think I have rather pleasing penmanship [sic], especially as a left-hander. I’ve always enjoyed the act of writing, too: forming letters on the page; the feel of nib on velum (okay, biro on file paper); even, the typing of font on keyboard. I hold, dear reader, the dizzying ‘Stage 1’ typing qualification – with distinction – awarded by the Royal Secretarial College (RSA), circa 1992.

As a career academic, I’m also reasonably ‘well published’ (as we professors tend to say, or claim, at least). I published my first 80k-word book with Bloomsbury in 2005, The National Fabric, and have since produced (churned out) many a journal article and book chapter as an occupational requirement bound up with a personal passion. I’ve also had the opportunity to get involved with editorial, commissioning, and review work, sitting on the Boards of several academic journals published by Intellect, Taylor & Francis and Emerald and Chairing the Lord Aberdare annual book award. Heck, I even won ‘Outstanding Reviewer 2008’ in the Literati Awards (yes, that’s a thing).

It’s not often I assemble, as above, my word-y activities in one place. It’s a good reminder that so much of my life has involved, even been dedicated to, the written word. Only last month, I delivered a workshop for colleagues at the Art School on ‘First Steps In Publishing’. That proved an enjoyable mentoring opportunity to share my experiences of a world with which I am familiar and that others find daunting. My advice? There are few tricks or short cuts. The secret is to sit down, shut up, and write something.

The point I’m labouring to get to is that recent weeks have brought forth a literary-millinery alliance. Bournemouth (a resort and retirement hot spot on the South Coast) has an annual writing festival and, by chance, I stumbled on one of its competitions: a 200 word piece of flash fiction on any hat-related theme. Now, that is my bivouac!

My 193-word submission is reproduced below. Fictional, although loosely based on historical precedents, it proved, unfortunately, not to be a prize winning piece. I’ll let you judge for yourself.

Mrs Holroyd’s Hatpin 

It was a bitterly cold morning in early Spring when Clara Constance Holroyd entered the dock at Bournemouth’s Courts of Justice.  Clara’s case had drawn an unusually large crowd to the public gallery, hungry for lurid details of her recent arrest.  The onlookers were anticipating a bit of a show.  Clara was among the more outspoken members of the local branch of Pankhurst’s WSPU; one of those misguided and wholly reprehensible Suffragettes.  

“Mrs Holroyd” said the presiding judge in measured tones, as if addressing a persistently ill-behaved child, “are you aware of the gravity of your actions?”  He continued, “you are charged with disorderly conduct, with attempted assault of a police constable and with possession of a weapon”.  At that, he gestured towards Clara’s favourite hatpin – a thirtieth birthday gift from her godmother – which now bore a cheap cardboard luggage tag marked ‘Exhibit A’.  

“Do you have anything to say in your defence, Mrs Holroyd?”

There was an expectant hush as Clara held the man’s gaze with steely assuredness, jutting her chin.  “VOTES FOR WOMEN!”  Her voice rang out across the courtroom, a clear, strong, urgent, clarion call.  “VOTES FOR WOMEN!”

Regency Barbie

The new year is off to a flying start. This past week, the results of the 6th Annual Lincoln International Millinery Competition (LIMC) were announced. *Drum roll, please*. And I am thrilled and delighted to have scooped second prize. Huzzah! The esteemed competition judges were Stephen `Jones OBE and Denise Wallace-Spriggs, both leaders in the millinery field with awesome reputations. The submitted hats were judged anonymously. My prize is sponsored by Hat Blocks Australia (thank you HBA).

Entrants to the contest were set a challenging brief: to purchase two secondhand hats, cut them precisely in half (either vertically or horizontally) and shunt them together to create a new hat. All for just £10. Sounds easy? I assure you it was not. 

The gallery below hosts images of my submission, from the original sad-looking hats acquired in the charity shops of Norfolk, to the final snazzy up-cycled bonnet, which I named Regency Barbie (for obvious reasons once you set eyes on it). There are also images of work-in-progress. 

It’s not often one has the opportunity either to pose, or ponder, the question: ‘what would Barbie have worn in the year 1813?’ I sourced a few old straw hats within budget (itself a hard task) and then had to have a very long think about how to tackle the brief. Finally, the braided, natural straw, sunhat (refer to gallery) triggered my imagination. Its wide brim and lattice-work design seemed to me to have the faintest whiff of an old fashioned bonnet. Not that I’d ever attempted to make one of those before. But it appears that the old adage rings very true, ‘necessity is the mother of all invention’. 

All in all, a fun project. Not only was it a surprise to be awarded second place in a very strong field of competitors (congrats to Mason Millinery, the overall winner), another surprise is that the process has switched me on to bonnet making far more than I could ever have imagined. The Regency Barbie bonnet may be my first but I hope it isn’t my last. With many apologies to Jane Austen, “it is a truth universally acknowledged that a single woman in possession of a good fortune must be in want of a hat.”

Star Struck

Whilst the taking part is important, winning is also rather nice, is it not?

News hot off the press: Goodrum & Merryweather has scooped the award of 2nd place in the Mad Hatters Society (MHS) 12th annual millinery competition 2023. Should millinery be a competitive pursuit? Do we thrive with collaboration rather than competition? These questions are meaty and very worthy of lively debate. Yet, in this fleeting moment of success, I plan to enjoy the recognition, and reward, that my 2nd prize ushers forth and leave the more philosophical questions for another day.

Naturally, I am thrilled to be placed in this international competition, which is well established and, this year, was judged by the esteemed master milliner, Jenny Gerst Pfanenstiel from Louisville, who is the current featured milliner of the Kentucky Derby. The theme of the MHS this year was ‘a favourite song’. After due consideration, I plumped for Starry, Starry Night (sometimes known as Vincent) by Don McLean. My design morphed quite considerably from concept to delivery (there was a moment of madness with an oversized tulle pompom that didn’t make the final cut) but I had an overarching vision in my mind’s eye to do with stars (obviously), palettes and Vincent van Gogh. The gallery below provides some snapshots of the award-winning result. I am particularly pleased with my totally original origami sinamay stars, which I had to teach myself to make – and make to a suitable standard of finish – for the competition. Now, why on earth don’t milliners put more stars on hats rather than the customary flowers?

For posterity, I end here by including a copy of my accompanying statement of inspiration, which formed part of my competition entry.

Inspiration: The song begins, “a starry, starry night / paint your palette blue and gray” and provides an obvious color scheme. The song is a tribute to the artist, Vincent van Gogh and the sinamay swirl references a painterly, gestural, brush stroke, echoing the tumbling lines of the clouds in van Gogh’s ‘The Starry Night’ painting from 1889. Lurex-threaded sinamay adds twinkles, along with handmade origami stars. The shallow brim hints at both a palette-like and planet-like shape, bringing together the artistic and the celestial themes of the hat.

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Me and Mr Jones

This blog entry has a slightly different format to my usual, strict, one-image-and-text layout. Why? Because I felt visuals would tell my latest story most effectively (refer to gallery below). After months of patient waiting, the results of the annual Lincoln International Millinery Competition (LIMC) have been announced. And Goodrum & Merryweather has made it on to the roll of honour, being awarded a prize as runner up. This is thrilling and, parking my reservations about millinery as a competitive pursuit, I am cock-a-hoop that my work has received recognition, particularly when the esteemed judge just happens to be milliner extraordinaire and hatter to the stars, Stephen Jones OBE (his Wikipedia entry begins with “one of the most radical and important milliners of the late 20th and early 21st century”).

The competition brief was issued back in September 2022 and entries were required to be submitted by January 2023. It has been a long haul, then, with an obligation to keep schtum, so as not to bias the judging, pre-empt the results and to build anticipation. Entrants have been under strict instructions not to post images of their hats on social media or give the game away. Until results day, today.

The theme for this year’s competition was challenging yet timely: ‘repurposing’. Entrants were asked to purchase an existing hat (dated receipts required, no cheating) and re-block it into a different shape, make it wearable and trim it, all for under £10. Friends, it is tricky to find a suitable, and suitably cheap hat, to meet this brief and this budget. Yet the charity shops of Norwich delivered after just two shopping expeditions (an image of the original, decidedly lacklustre, hat features in the gallery below). I had my mind set on making a boater-style hat for the competition, mainly because I hadn’t had the opportunity to attempt one before and the shape and style appealed to me. The issue, I felt, was how to snazz up a boater with some eye-catching trims on an absolute shoestring. The cost of the original hat combined with a half metre of zingy-coloured sinamay left me with about £1 to spend. The answer to my conundrum came in the form of run-of-the-mill disposable facemasks: cheap, bought in bulk, pliable, multilayered, ruffle-up-able and with several design elements that could help me out such as a bendy wire nose clip and stretchy ear loops (the latter of which I repurposed as a pseudo hat elastic attached to the underside of the final piece). Next, I needed a good pun to bring the whole idea together and sell it to myself as much as any competition judge. For several weeks, my working title was The Ascot Picador until, one day, my word-smithery finally came up trumps. Ascot Mask-cot it was to be.

My thanks to chief organiser and LIMC founder and head honcho, Annette Edgar, for masterminding the Lincoln competition each year; to overall winner Megan Hughes, congratulations; to my fellow entrants for making the experience fun and inspiring and for keeping the heritage craft of millinery alive and prospering, and to Stephen Jones. Three cheers to us all and three cheers to millinery.

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