Season To Taste

To everything there is a season, so the saying goes. And that is very much the case when it comes to millinery. Millinery, and especially fancy hats for special occasions such as weddings, horse racing and garden parties takes off as the cuckoo calls in Spring. It is generally held that milliners (in the Northern hemisphere) ramp up their business and production from about Easter/April and go flat out until late Summer/beginning of September. In the UK, this period coincides neatly with what is referred to among the gentry and aspirant hangers-on as ‘The Season’, something dating from the 17th century, peaking in the 19th century, and still very much observed among the smart set today. Annual, very exclusive, events form the bones of The Season and are occasions at which to be seen and in which to participate in order to maintain one’s social, and historically, political, credentials. Events include the merry-go-round of Glyndebourne, Chelsea, Ascot, Goodwood, Henley, Wimbledon and Cowes (not a definitive list by any means). Hats for both men (in the order of boaters, top hats and panamas) and women (tending towards floral, Summery, confections) are very much part and parcel of these proceedings.

It is useful to set the seasonal scene (refer above) because it explains, to a degree, the flurry of activity that has taken place since my last journal entry back at the beginning of March ’23. Dear reader, things have hotted up. I have been busy. And some exciting projects, planned and prepared in the depths of the Wintery off-season, have finally come to fruition. In order not to confuse or bewilder, I have selected five highlights from the past five weeks. Hopefully, this will give a taste of the depth, breadth and pace of Goodrum & Merryweather activity at the moment. In sum, these ‘5 in 5’ display clear progression of, and development in, my millinery endeavours, and I am proud of these achievements. Rather than writing acres of text (we’d all be here for an age), I’ve decided to present my ‘5 in 5’ in the form of an annotated gallery. Click on.

Squeeze The Day

Eleanor Frances Dixie, c. 1753, by Henry Pickering. Source: Nottingham City Museums & Galleries. The sitter is shown wearing a bergère (lit. shepherdess), a flat-brimmed, shallow-crowned hat made of straw, often with ribbon ties. During the 2020s, this archaic style has made something of a comeback, possibly as a riff on the fashionable straw boater as well as being popularised to mass audiences through cinematic period dramas.

A quick note today, Sunday 15th January 2023, to give due recognition to National Hat Day. Let’s celebrate hats, hat-makers, hat wearing and all things chapeaux today. Dust off your deerstalker. Polish your Panama. Buff up your bergère (pictured).

Has National Hat Day passed you by? This may not be so surprising, given its origins are in the US and that the tradition does not appear to have travelled effectively across The Pond. Or might it be that you are preoccupied with National Fresh Squeezed Juice Day? Or World Snow Day? Or even the Feast of St. Paul the Hermit? All of these are marked on the 15th January each year. Hats off to them all.

The Year A-Head

In go faster red. Ushering in a snazzy new sewing machine but sad to say farewell to my old one. That’s the push and pull of Janus-faced January . [Source: JLP]

The new year of 2023 is but young. However, thus far, it has encompassed a significant quantity of millinery activity. I am resolved to continuing in the same manner over the course of the next three-hundred-and-sixty-or-so days. Millinery is a practice, after all, so an attempt at regular and sustained making is the name of the game for me this year.

Each year, the gift-giving of Christmas proves a good opportunity to add coveted millinery tools and materials to my making armoury. It’s fair to say, I think, that no milliner can ever have sufficient supplies, just as no milliner can ever have sufficient studio space in which to store them. The rafters at Goodrum & Merryweather Towers are always full to bursting with a mix of work-in-progress, bulky hat boxes, rolls of colourful sinamay and sprung wire that pings about everywhere refusing to be tamed. And, as the proud owner of a brand new sewing machine in a dazzling pillar-box-red colour (thanks Santa), the savvy arrangement of space and resources is particularly pressing.

The holiday season, especially the week-long stretch of ‘Betwixtmas’ (that no-man’s land between Boxing Day and New Year) presented me with some rare unaccounted hours and a perfect, welcome, opportunity to push forward with production by spending some quality needle time. I found myself working on labour-intensive processes in multiple: wiring felt hats; whip stitching tarlatan and, hand sewing head ribbons. These actions are the basics and staples of hat making and may be regarded simultaneously as repetitive, underwhelming and time-consuming but also as meditative, steadying and familiar. Opposing interpretations of, and feelings towards, the same techniques. How very appropriate to January, the Janus-faced month.

A Goodrum & Merry(weather) Christmas

Christmas crackers, December 1970. Don’t forget to don your festive hat this Christmas. [Source: Mirrorpix/SurreyLive]

I have been waiting all year to use that strap line. Or, more accurately, I have been waiting since March 2022, when the Goodrum & Merryweather website had its online launch and my studio came more formally into existence.

These first nine months have proven busy, productive, and exciting with the following top three highlights included in the mix:

  1. March 2022, flying high : Goodrum & Merryweather exhibited in the hangar at the Flying Museum (Hampshire) in the shadow of a vintage Sopwith Pup bi-plane. Discover the full story here.
  2. June 2022, winners all round : Goodrum & Merryweather hats went to Ascot and were worn by stylish clients in the grandstand on Ladies Day. Discover the full story here.
  3. August 2022, bright city lights : Goodrum & Merryweather selected to represent the British Millinery Association at London Hat Week, being showcased alongside milliners from the USA, Norway, Spain and The Netherlands. Discover the full story here.

I wonder what 2023 will have in store? I certainly have lots of millinery irons in the fire and, as ever, lots of hats being made and, even more, creative design ideas to be realised. I will continue to post about these, along with other news items, over the coming months. Until then, may your festive period be full to the brim with joy, peace, good health and a generous sprinkling of merry(weather)-ment.

Empower With A Flower

‘Pluck’ by name and by nature.
A Goodrum & Merryweather original, created for Wear A Hat Day With Flowers in aid of Brain Tumour Research,
17th June 2022.

A ‘heads up’ for next week, which is full to bursting with millinery since Royal Ascot (14-18th June 2022) and Wear A Hat Day With Flowers (17th June 2022) for the charity Brain Tumour Research are both taking place in quick succession. Goodrum & Merryweather will be involved in both events as some of my hats will be on stylish heads in the Ascot Enclosure on Ladies Day on Thursday whilst Brain Tumour Research will be featuring me, and my Goodrum & Merryweather adventures, across their social media platforms on Friday.

Brain Tumour Research organises three fund- and awareness-raising ‘Wear A Hat’ events nationally across the calendar year: their flagship event in March called ‘Wear A Hat Day’; ‘Wear A Hat Day With Flowers’ during British Flower Week in June; and, ‘Wear A Christmas Hat Day’ at the end of the year. As both a milliner and a brain tumour survivor (having had 12-hour surgery at Addenbrooke’s Hospital, Cambridge, in April 2019), I hold the charity, and its Wear A Hat Days, particularly dear. You may read my Story Of Hope, which has just been published on the Brain Tumour Research website in readiness for Wear A Hat Day With Flowers here.

This year, I have fashioned a custom-made Goodrum & Merryweather flowery hat (pictured) as my own millinery tribute to the charitable brain tumour cause. After some consideration, I titled it Pluck, as in flower but also courage. Appropriate. Yet, is a hat truly able to do justice to all the tremendous people involved in my diagnosis, surgery and convalescence these past three years? All the fundraisers and all the friends? I will leave you to decide. What is increasingly apparent to me is that millinery, along with the establishment of Goodrum & Merryweather, over recent months has been a significant part of my recovery, both mentally and physically. If my brain tumour was unexpected, then my emergence as a milliner has been equally so. My health crisis imposed permanent disability, forced part-time working, disrupted an established career path but also brought welcome opportunities in millinery form, including time and space to practice its art and craft. Millinery has diverted my attention, made my creative juices flow, given me joy, connected me to new networks, introduced me to new people, developed my motor skills and stamina, and supplied focus and purpose. It has been a silver lining. (A silk dupion silver lining in the best couture millinery tradition, naturally).

Brain tumours kill more children and adults under the age of forty than any other cancer. Yet just 1% of the national spend on cancer research has been allocated to this devastating disease. The Brain Tumour Research charity is determined to change this. Its manifesto contains more information about its vision and campaigning. You may donate to Brain Tumour Research here. Purchase Wear A Hat Day merchandise here. Or buy a Brain Tumour Research brooch designed by one of several high profile milliners (Rachel Trevor-Morgan and Edwina Ibbotson among them) here.

Crowning Glory

HRH Queen Elizabeth II, Silver Jubilee hat, 7th June 1977. Image Source: Getty.

As the long Jubilee Holiday and Platinum celebrations draw near (with an extended holiday weekend in the UK stretching from 02.06.2022 through to 05.06.2022), a few words on the Queen’s millinery are timely.

Whether or not one is a Republican or Royalist, a Roundhead or Cavalier, there’s no denying that Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II is one of the world’s most well known hat wearers. Over the seventy years of her reign, she has been an unflinching supporter and advocate for British millinery. Indeed, she is rarely seen in public without a hat or, at the very least, without her trademark silk headscarf, knotted under the chin, for more informal, off-duty, moments.

Custom, etiquette and propriety are very much to the fore here. The most senior royal and monarch must follow protocol and tradition, both of which call for a traditional head covering. Marschner and Behlen (2003, p.3), curators of the Accessories From the Royal Wardrobe exhibition at Kensington Palace offer further insight on the strength of the link between the monarch and millinery, thus: “HM Queen Elizabeth II’s…accessories – her hats and handbags in particular – have a special and important role; and for many of us as observers they have become almost an insignia of office.”

One of the Queen’s most memorable hats, and the topic of much discussion and debate, just happens to have been designed and made for a previous Jubilee event, some 45 years ago, on 7th June 1977. Back then, the Queen was celebrating her Silver (25 years) Jubilee and, for the Service of Thanksgiving, an event which formed the centrepiece of the festive programming, she donned a striking, and extremely unusual, helmet hat (pictured). Covered in bright pink crepe to match her dress and decoratively stitched with green contour lines, the hat is noted for its dangling trim of twenty-five bell-like flowers, one for each year of her silver reign. The designer credited as making the hat is disputed. Australian born Frederick Fox (1931-2013) has most often been attributed as its creator but more recent research suggests that French born Simone Mirman (1912-2008) made the hat. Both milliners were given royal appointments and made tens, if not hundreds, of hats for the Queen during their long and illustrious careers as prominent Society hat makers. But, in this instance, the jury remains out as to a truly definitive answer or explanation of creative authorship/s.

At the time, the Silver Jubilee hat was not universally lauded as a style hit. Many felt the vivid shade of pink, combined with the dangly bells did not strike a suitably majestic tone, given the grandness of the occasion and the status of the wearer. Yet, others, felt the playful and jaunty styling of the hat was more than appropriate, working perfectly as a celebratory and joyful statement that was fully in keeping with the spirit of the anniversary. [And I must say, vibrant pink and vibrant green is one of Goodrum & Merryweather’s signature combinations, so I can’t help but confess a weakness here].

Whatever the reaction – and whomsoever the designer – one thing without doubt is that this particular hat has left a fascinating legacy on both millinery, and jubilee, history.

Her Fair Associate

Be the grandest lady in the Easter Parade. Detail of ‘Her Fair Associate’ (studio sample) by Goodrum & Merryweather, 2022.

The Easter festival is soon upon us and it seems fitting to feature a Goodrum & Merryweather hat brimming with that most seasonal of flowers, the Easter lily. Pictured is the ‘Her Fair Associate’ hat in a teal coloured sinamay, adorned with a silk abaca swirl and a posy of handmade lilies and laser cut coque feathers. I made this just a couple of months ago as a studio sample to demonstrate to my workshop participants how skills from a lily-making class might be developed into something more elaborate.

The ‘Her Fair Associate’ reference originates from the pen of Dorothy Dix (1861-1951), an American journalist most known for her advice columns on domestic matters, modern manners, women’s suffrage, happiness and romance and author of the compellingly titled book How To Win And Hold A Husband (1939). The particular quotation attributed to Dix that piqued my imagination reads: “…the rose is the flower and handmaiden of love. The lily, her fair associate…”.

Imagine my surprise and delight when, upon looking up Dorothy Dix to find out a little more about her extraordinary life and accomplishments, I discovered that she wrote under a nom de plume. Dorothy Dix was born Elizabeth Meriwether and, upon marriage, became a Meriwether Gilmer. Spelling aside, an intriguing coincidence for all us (Goodrum &) Merryweathers, no?

The name Dorothy Dix continues to have a place in popular culture today and, so I am led to believe, has come to be a shibboleth in Australia. There, a ‘Dixer’ is an expression used to refer to the ministerial practice of ‘planting’ a rehearsed question during parliamentary debates and originates from Dorothy’s alleged penchant for self-authoring the letters supposedly sent in by correspondents to her advice column. And, for those cricket fans among us, also in Australia, a ‘Dorothy Dix’ is rhyming slang for hitting a ball up beyond the boundary of the cricket field, thereby earning a score of six (rhymes with Dix) runs. Howzat then?

Style Stakes

‘Whisky Mac’ by Goodrum & Merryweather. Shaken & Stirred Collection.

The Gloucestershire town of Cheltenham, acclaimed for its Regency architecture, spa waters and literature festival, holds special memories for me. I lived in Cheltenham for around three years in the late 1990s, as a PhD student, and earned my doctorate on fashion and Britishness whilst there (for more on that, refer to my book, The National Fabric, 2005, published by Bloomsbury). I fondly remember (in no particular order) the rolling Cotswold hills, The Beehive pub, The SubTone bar (recently closed), the lido at Sandford Parks and, of course, the horses, racetrack and associated high jinks of the annual Cheltenham Festival, with its famous Gold Cup.

Today (16/03/2022) is Ladies Day at The Cheltenham Festival 2022 and it forms an important milestone in the millinery calendar. It is the day most closely associated with fashion and hats, with punters dressing up in their finery as a traditional part of the celebrations. At Cheltenham, given its scheduling in early Spring with its potential for inclement weather and late frosts, women tend to wear robust, brimmed, hats in felt and wool such as trilbies and fedoras. Flimsier, and more flamboyant, head gear is saved for the Summery exuberance of Ascot later in the Season. Cheltenham is the place for country-inspired style with tweeds and checks in muted hues and those-in-the-know will be aware that pheasant feathers are the trim of choice among the smart set.

Given these conventions, Goodrum & Merryweather’s ‘Whisky Mac’ (pictured) would strike quite the perfect note for a day out at Cheltenham. I made this hat as part of the ‘Shaken & Stirred’ collection, using an original ‘halo’ block from the 1950s to achieve a beautiful, face framing, arched effect so redolent of vintage millinery. It’s made in wool felt, in a deep hunter green colour and is finished with a rather striking plume of feathers and oversized vintage button. An odds-on favourite? Sure bet.

Head Turners, Page Turners

Millinery references are writ large across the pages of Woolf’s Mrs Dalloway (1925)

Today (03/03/2022) is World Book Day, an annual charitable campaign funded by booksellers and publishers in the UK and Ireland with the intention of giving every child a book of their own. Traditionally, schoolchildren mark the day with a festive feel by dressing up in characterful costumes from their favourite works of fiction. It’s fun for all and a celebration of literacy and the joy and value of reading. Although that said, I did spot this headline from The Telegraph imploring “let’s end the performative hell of compulsory World Book Day costumes”. Oh dear!

When you stop to think about it, the worlds of literature and millinery collide with great regularity. Fictional characters are frequently depicted through their headgear with hats used as a valuable literary device by authors, as a shorthand, to signal a character’s traits, status and function. At its simplest, the ‘baddies’ wear a black hat, the ‘goodies’ wear white. Certain fictional characters have also come to be closely associated with particular hats and depicted as hat wearers. One of the most obvious examples being Conan Doyle’s fictional detective, Sherlock Holmes and his infamous houndstooth deerstalker.

Then there are fictional works about hats. The children’s publishing arena is particularly strong in this regard. There’s Amy de la Haye’s Clara Button and the Magical Hat Day (2011); Red Hat by Lita Judge (2013); Hat by Paul Hoppe (2009); Rosie’s Hat by Julia Donaldson (2005), and The Queen’s Hat by Steve Antony (2014), to name but a few. And that’s not to mention The Cat In The Hat (1957) by good old Dr Seuss.

As far as books for grown-ups go, Michael Arlen’s The Green Hat (1924) is a keen starting point. And there are subtler references to millinery scattered throughout the pages of Edith Wharton’s House of Mirth (1905)Frances Hodgson Burnett’s The Making of a Marchioness (1901) and Virginia Woolf’s Mrs Dalloway (1925), wherein the protagonist Rezia, an Italian milliner, pronounces “it’s the hat that matters most” (p. 95). My sentiments precisely.

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